Category Archives: Knits

McCall’s 5252 Hoodie, Part 3: Muslin Complete

It took me a while, but I finished the muslin for my hoodie project this past weekend.  Between a busy work schedule and weekend events, it’s been difficult to squeeze in sewing time lately!

I can say I can definitely call this hoodie a muslin, because it was difficult to make and it is filled with mistakes.  Most of them I was able to fix, but the end result is something I can charitably call a “learning experience”.


Most of the angst in this pattern comes from the pockets.  Nearly every other sweatshirt pattern in existence has simple patch pockets flush with the waistband and front zipper.  But this pattern actually incorporates on-seam pocket bags inside the jacket, shown in this inside view:

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McCall’s 5252 Hoodie, Part 2

Today I spent some time in the Line of Selvage Design Studio (my basement) settling on a design for my hoodie.

The Real Project

I plan to make a muslin to test pattern sizing, since it is reported to run so large. Since I have both black and grey sweatshirt fleece, I want to have some color blocking fun with it.

But while rifling through my fabric stash for some fabric to use for pocketing, I came across this discovery:

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McCall’s 5252 Hoodie, Part 1

The zip-front hooded sweatshirt (aka the “Hoodie”) might just be the official casual garment of San Francisco.  And for good reason. At the tip of a peninsula, we are surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and the San Francisco Bay, so the marine breeze makes us one of the chilliest spots in the entire Bay Area.

Hoodies provide just the right amount of warmth for early chilly mornings and late breezy evenings for most of the year. Yet they aren’t so heavy that they are too warm to wear mid-day, even during the summer months when the temperature in the city proper might peak in the low-70s.

I’ve wanted to make my own hoodie for some time, and even got a start on the project. But I didn’t get very far before my attention was drawn to other projects.

But now I decided I wanted an easy and fun project to do after all the fiddly, detailed shirt-making I’ve been doing the past months. At least as a palate cleanser before I move on to even more challenging projects. Of course, being me I’ll somehow figure out a way to make this easy project into something complicated. Continue reading