Projects take a long time here at Line Of Selvage headquarters. Mostly it comes about through lots of puttering, but also because I’m sometimes too meticulous for my own good.
Today I finished tracing and cutting out the pattern pieces from tracing paper. The tracing paper is from a big roll of yellow artists sketch/tracing paper I bought at the art supply store.
As you can see, I spend a lot of time tracing the patterns down to the last tiny detail. I can’t help it; I think it’s part of my OCD nature that comes along with being an engineer. In any event, the pieces eventually all got traced and cut out:
There’s lots of pieces in this shirt; more than any pattern I’ve done to date.
Which leads my to my next set of discoveries – and mysteries – about this pattern.
While tracing and cutting, I discovered this notation on the front piece:
Note the directions, “For left front Cut here”. That means the left and right fronts are not identical shapes. The right front has some more fabric in the center which is folded to make the right side front band (the one holding buttons on a men’s shirt). The left front, on the other hand, does not have the front band as an integral part of the piece; instead, it’s a separate piece of fabric that is folded, then sewn on to the left front:
Why it is done this way, I do not know. It is different than the assembly detailed in Pam Howard’s class. But I can deal.
Earlier, I said it looked like the pattern offered two shoulder pleats. Nope, it offers one big box pleat in the center. The pleat details are on the back piece, rather than the yoke. What I thought were pleat marks on the yoke are just notches.
So, that settles that. I’ll make it a box pleat, just because I don’t want to experiment at this time, but I’m guessing it wouldn’t be hard to change the pleat.
More confusion surrounds the collar. Here’s all the collar pieces that came with the pattern:
Pieces 12 (collar) and 13 (neckband) are all that are used for Views A and B (casual style collar). Views C and D also use Piece 14 (the undercollar) and 15 (the collar facing).
For Views A and B, you are to cut two copies of Collar 12, and use them to construct the collar. From my class, I’m supposed to expect the undercollar piece to be smaller (by about 1/8 inch) to get the upper collar to turn and completely hide the lower collar. What’s interesting is that if you compare the undercollar and the upper collar, you find the pattern pieces, while not shaped exactly the same, are in fact the same size:
In this photo, I’ve overlapped piece 14 on piece 12, and they’re sized the same.
As I’m doing View A, I’m skipping pieces 14 and 15. But I may try to modify collar piece 12 so the one intended for underneath is a little bit smaller, as in the class. Time to review that video.
Tomorrow, finally, is the fabric layout and cutting.