The Tailored Shirt #4: Cutting Complete

Last night, I finally completed layout and cutting of the muslin for my shirt project.

Because I’m using a bedsheet, it doesn’t match the standard dimensions (45 or 60-inch between selvages) that you would expect from fabric off the bolt.  In fact, instead of selvages, it has hems.  So I did my own layout, only using the pattern instructions to be sure I was getting proper counts, and right sides/wrong sides for each piece. I was able to do back, sleeves, left front along one strip of the fabric selvage to selvage.

(Click on photos for larger versions)

front_band

I ran into an interesting problem when cutting the shirt front.  The right side has the band as an integral part of the shirt front, whereas the left side has the front band as a separate piece.  I really should have dealt with the problem by making two pattern pieces, but what I did was fold the front band back, cut the left side, then unfold it and cut the right side.  Here you can see me laying out the pattern for the left piece; the extra pattern for the band is folded back, and in upon itself so it doesn’t poke out of the hemline of the shirt tail.

collar_cut

Here’s the collar, neckband, cuffs and placket in the midst of cutting. The red thread in the collar are “tailor’s tacks” marking the locations of the collar buttons.

Some other notes from the cutting process:

  • The bedsheet is actually 55% cotton, 45% polyester. I discovered this while ironing.  The polyester will likely make ironing crisp edges more dificult.
  • I used the clear acrylic ruler to position grain lines from edge of selvage (hem).  I also used the pattern on fabric to evaluate grain line.
  • Following Pam Howard’s instructions, I cut notches on all center front/center back, and also did notches for shoulder seams (inside/outside) on the yoke. I used straight clips for the folds that were not centerlines. I also clipped fold notches on the placket.
  • I’m pretty sure I got my sleeves oriented correctly – no two lefts or two rights.
  • I also cut out the interfacing, and following Pam Howard’s instructions, I ensured I also cut out the interfacing on grain (it’s a woven interfacing).
Next, construction begins.