The Other Tuxedo Shirt

Greetings after a long absence.  My personal life has been rather hectic lately, and after completing the shirt for my client’s wedding I took a break from sewing for a while.

Readers who have followed the Tuxedo Shirt saga to this point will know I actually made two shirts.  The first was from a fabric that looked beautiful but was prone to wrinkling.  Since the wrinkly shirt was largely complete, I took time over the past week to finish this shirt for the client.  I personally put a lot of effort into it, so I did not want to see it go to waste.

IMG_2564

The idea is that this shirt would be more casual and suitable for every day wearing. A standard barrel cuff replaces the French cuff, and I lengthened the sleeve placket to make rolling up shirtsleeves easier.  This was a suggestion from Tammy at Sips N’ Sews, where I did most of the work.

IMG_2553

I had basted in a set of unfinished sleeves for fitting purposes. So the work was to pick off the sleeves and sleeve seam, finish the plackets and cuffs, then reattach the sleeves to the body of the shirt.

IMG_2550

The barrel cuff required I adjust the sleeve somewhat.  To make a French cuff, you turn the sleeve placket underlap inward.  For a barrel cuff, you don’t turn in the sleeve placket.  So the sleeve is a little wider, 1 inch in my case.  I took in the extra width by adding a third pleat at the sleeve.

IMG_2555

IMG_2554

I had cannibalized the mother-of-pearl buttons to produce the shirt ultimately worn to the wedding.  So I had to attach new buttons as well. I opted for plastic rather than mother-of-pearl, mainly because I have them on hand and the shirt is intended to be more casual.

Another minor difference is the shirt is an inch shorter than the “final” shirt, as I made a pattern adjustment between the two.

IMG_2559

The collar turned out well, a little bit better than the final shirt.

IMG_2537

IMG_2535  IMG_2533

IMG_2558

The shirt really doesn’t fit the dress form I’m displaying it on – it’s too large, for starters – but here’s a view of the back, including the yoke.

IMG_2545

And finally, side seams.

IMG_2556

6 thoughts on “The Other Tuxedo Shirt

  1. Alex in Califonria

    Beautiful. Wrinkles or no, I like the luxury fabric. Acceptable wrinkling like linen. Upscale casual.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *