Tag Archives: mccalls-2447

The Tailored Shirt #12: Buttons and the Final Shirt!

Greetings!

I am nearing the end of our shirt construction project!

  • Staystitching and Interfacing
  • Prepare and Attach Front Pocket
  • Shirt Front Bands
  • Yoke and Shoulder Seams
  • Prepare and Attach Collar and Neckband
  • Prepare Sleeve Placket
  • Attach Sleeve to Armscye, flat-fell armscye seams
  • Sew Side and Sleeve Seams (with flat-felling)
  • Prepare Cuffs
  • Pleat Sleeves, Attach Cuffs, Topstitch Cuffs
  • Rolled Hems along bottom of shirt
  • Buttonholes (including front band, collar, cuffs, and sleeves)
  • Attach all Buttons
  • Final Shirt Press

Buttons

A dress shirt typically has buttons in the following places:

  • Front Band (left side on a men’s shirt, right side on women’s)
  • Collar Band (right in the middle – again on left side of collar band for men)
  • Cuffs
  • Collar points (if making a button-down collar)
  • Sleeve Placket

The sleeve placket on McCall’s 2447 does not have a sleeve button.  I thought about making one, but the placket is a little short and so it doesn’t need it.  I did decide to make the collar a button-down collar, just to get the practice making and placing the buttonhole and buttons. Continue reading

The Tailored Shirt #11: Cuffs and Hems

Dear Reader,

Today we’re tacking the cuffs and shirt-tail hems for our shirt:

  • Staystitching and Interfacing
  • Prepare and Attach Front Pocket
  • Shirt Front Bands
  • Yoke and Shoulder Seams
  • Prepare and Attach Collar and Neckband
  • Prepare Sleeve Placket
  • Attach Sleeve to Armscye, flat-fell armscye seams
  • Sew Side and Sleeve Seams (with flat-felling)
  • Prepare Cuffs
  • Pleat Sleeves, Attach Cuffs, Topstitch Cuffs
  • Rolled Hems along bottom of shirt
  • Buttonholes (including front band, collar, cuffs, and sleeves)
  • Attach all Buttons
  • Final Shirt Press

Cuffs

McCall’s 2447 uses two separate pieces for the outside and inside facing of the cuff.  This differs from the pattern in Pam Howard’s class, which uses a single pattern piece for each cuff. Also, in my pattern the cuff is constructed (outside and inside sewn right sides, facing, seam allowances trimmed and clipped) and then turned before attaching to shirt.  And finally, the ends of cuff are flush with ends of sleeve plackets, rather than extending 5/8 inch past the ends of the plackets as Pam Howard does. (Or at least that’s what the diagrams in the pattern instructions indicate. Continue reading

The Tailored Shirt #10: Sleeves and Side Seams

Yes, I know what you’re thinking: I’m covering the construction of this shirt in excruciating, back-breaking detail.  Few other sewing blogs I’ve seen have gone this far into the weeds in covering the making of a garment.

But, as I said before, this blog is partly my public notebook.  I’m writing this for my own reference, and I’m putting it out here in the hope that someone might find this useful – or to tell me where I’m going wrong. Or to tell me they’re bored to tears, in which case they should go back to Facebook.

I’ve received some feedback off-blog that the fabric I’m using is pretty poor.  That is true.  It’s not awful to work with, but it could be friendlier. And it doesn’t look pretty. But I never intended this shirt to be wearable; I expected some disaster along the way would make the shirt unwearable. The idea was to learn and make mistakes along the way.

As it turns out, this shirt is evolving into something that might be wearable. If not for the pattern on the fabric and that I’ve made no attempts at fitting. If it turns out that way, great – it means I’m getting a good start towards making shirts with the $30/yard Italian shirting fabric (okay, I paid $20/yard on sale at Britex) sitting in my fabric stash.

So, anyway, onward.  Today we’re focusing on attaching the sleeves and side seams.

  • Staystitching and Interfacing
  • Prepare and Attach Front Pocket
  • Shirt Front Bands
  • Yoke and Shoulder Seams
  • Prepare and Attach Collar and Neckband
  • Prepare Sleeve Placket
  • Attach Sleeve to Armscye, flat-fell armscye seams
  • Sew Side and Sleeve Seams (with flat-felling)
  • Prepare Cuffs
  • Pleat Sleeves, Attach Cuffs, Topstitch Cuffs
  • Rolled Hems along bottom of shirt
  • Buttonholes (including front band, collar, cuffs, and sleeves)
  • Attach all Buttons
  • Final Shirt Press

Shoulder Seams

The shoulder seams must be eased into the armscye.  You’re supposed to match ends, notches and dots on both the sleeve piece and the armscye. At this point the armscye is formed by the combination of front, yoke and back pieces. There’s supposed to be a little bit of mismatch because the two are different lengths, but when I pinned the matching points I found something was seriously wrong.

IMG_0588 Continue reading

The Tailored Shirt #9: Sleeve Placket

Here’s where I’m at so far in the construction order.

  • Staystitching and Interfacing
  • Prepare and Attach Front Pocket
  • Shirt Front Bands
  • Yoke and Shoulder Seams
  • Prepare and Attach Collar and Neckband
  • Prepare Sleeve Placket
  • Attach Sleeve to Armscye, flat-fell armscye seams
  • Sew Side and Sleeve Seams (with flat-felling)
  • Prepare Cuffs
  • Pleat Sleeves, Attach Cuffs, Topstitch Cuffs
  • Rolled Hems along bottom of shirt
  • Buttonholes (including front band, collar, cuffs, and sleeves)
  • Attach all Buttons
  • Final Shirt Press

For the sleeve plackets, I had planned to work from Pam Howard’s video tutorial, but the McCall’s 2447 placket piece is a little different from the class pattern, and so I chose to follow the pattern directions instead.  The big difference between the two is that the McCall’s pattern has 1/4-inch folds along the placket edges and the point, rather than wider folds along the edge.

First, I had to match up the placket to the sleeve it belongs to.  Right side of placket to wrong side of sleeve piece, tower towards center of sleeve.

IMG_0556-1608547187 Continue reading