Monthly Archives: July 2014

The Breakfast Club Wardrobe, Part 7: Pant Fitting Continues

Hello everyone!

As we are now well into the back half of July, and I’m still at the muslin stage of my pants project, I’ve decided to abandon the idea of competing in the Pattern Review Mini-Wardrobe contest.

Ideally, all the muslin work would have been completed before July 1, leaving me to focus just on creating the final garments.  To get the pants pattern to a point where I’m happy with it, I have to do more muslins.  It would be sad to investment enormous time and effort into something that doesn’t fit, just to meet an arbitrary deadline.

And this month has been bad for me in terms of free time, with a big deadline to meet at work. I already have enough stress from job-related deadlines, I don’t need self-imposed deadlines for sewing projects as well.

So out the contest goes.

The Project Expands

That doesn’t mean the project is over. In fact, freed from the contest rule limitations it’s expanding to three pairs of pants and three shirts. Fabric Outlet, as expected, began their 40% off sale and I picked up a cut of the brown twill I had passed over for the platinum grey.  It goes great with the shirt fabrics, and as a side benefit will take this summer wardrobe into the fall months. (September and most of October are traditionally the best “summer” months in San Francisco, because they have less fog and more sun).

IMG_1338 Continue reading

The Breakfast Club Wardrobe, Part 6: Modifying the Pants Pattern

The days grow fewer, but the work to be done on this project seems to grow and grow!

This past week I focused on modifying the pants pattern. Some of the grunt work I did sitting in the living room while watching the drama of the Tour de France unfold on TV.


Thread Theory’s instructions for the Jedediah Pants pattern have the following (abridged) table for body measurements:

Feature 32 34 36
Waist 32″ 34″ 36″
Hip (Seat) 39″ 41″ 43″

My waist measures closer to 36, so that’s why I went with the 36 pattern for my first muslin.

On that muslin, I pinned out two inches of waistline and discovered it fits perfectly as a 34.  I measure 39″ at the hips, so my new plan is to start with the size 34 pattern at the waist, then grade to size 32 at the hips all the way down.

Based on my thigh and knee measurements, I could even consider grading down from 32 to 30 beneath the crotch area, but I want to see how this single change from 36 down to 34/32 works before doing more alterations. Continue reading

The Breakfast Club Wardrobe, Part 5: Hammer Time

My goal was to get out of muslin-land by the time this 4th of July weekend was through. I almost made that goal; while I got a shirt and a pants muslin made, I think there’s at least one more to do.

The Shirt Muslin: Print It

I’m pleased with the alterations to the shirt pattern.

First, I like the look better with the shoulder seam relocated farther back.  Now that I look at the photo, I notice some pull lines across the collarbone area, especially on the left, but wonder if that’s due to the use of pins rather than actual buttons.

IMG_1342 Continue reading

The Breakfast Club Wardrobe, Part 4: Shirt Muslin

I’m pleased to report some great progress on the shirt muslin for my wardrobe project! But first, some more pants-related stuff.

More Fabric Follies

I went back to Fabric Outlet to buy the mocha pants fabric I had picked out. Upon grabbing the bolt, I realized the fabric was too lightweight to make a proper pair of pants.

So I left the store with two more swatches, both of which turned out great. But in the end I had to pick just one.

  • The loser: This cocoa dark brown twill, which was a great match for the shirtings, but didn’t seem very “summery” to me.

IMG_1338 Continue reading

The Breakfast Club Wardrobe, Part 3: More Fabrics

OK, so I don’t have my muslins done yet.

But I did leave work quickly at 6 this evening to get to Fabric Outlet before they closed.  With 30 minutes to go, I rifled through their bolts of cotton twills and linens. I used up my limit of five swatches in search of a fabric/color selection for the second pair of pants in the Breakfast Club Wardrobe.

Herewith are the candidates, and my final selection.

Selection 1: Purple Linen

This purple linen looks smashing against the yellow and blue fabric. Against the purple shirting, it’s too matchy-matchy, but would have made a strong impression nonetheless.

IMG_1301 Continue reading